It all depends on the circumstances!
First of all, the problem with long exposure is that there are neither cameras nor light meters made for this task.
In this post, I would like to cover the day-time aspect of long exposures.
The content of which I assign a new rule to, the 10-stop rule.
For day-time long exposure, many different filters could be used. Some cameras have got a 3-stop ND-filter builtin, but this post is not about 3 stops...
10 stop ND-filters are known by many names. Just make sure your's actually attenuates by 10 stops.
Here's the maths (equivalent exposures), constant ISO assumed:
- 0: 1s/1000
- 1: 1s/500
- 2: 1s/250
- 3: 1s/125
- 4: 1s/ 60
- 5: 1s/30
- 6: 1s/15
- 7: 1s/8
- 8: 1s/4
- 9: 1s/2
- 10: 1s/1
OK, what does that mean when putting a 10-stop filter in front of a camera?
It means that when your light-meter indicates 1s/1000, you should set your camera to 1s, in order to get a regular exposure.
So, your scene would require a and exposure of 1s/1000, without any filter, the addition of a 10-stop filter, will get you to 1s for the same exposure.
So, if your exposure would call for a 1s/500, you obviously would like to expose for 2s.
Consequently, the exposure can be calculated as follows, with S being the shutter time of the light-meter reading:
Consequently, the exposure can be calculated as follows, with S being the shutter time of the light-meter reading:
Exposure time in seconds = 1000 * S
Example:
The meter calls for 1s/15 exposure, you would set the camera to 66s.
To smear out any sort of traffic, a minute should be plenty. Mind you, this kind of photography would usually ask for an aperture between f/8 and f/11.
Example:
The meter calls for 1s/15 exposure, you would set the camera to 66s.
To smear out any sort of traffic, a minute should be plenty. Mind you, this kind of photography would usually ask for an aperture between f/8 and f/11.