Showing posts with label street. Show all posts
Showing posts with label street. Show all posts

Sunday, May 12, 2019

New Angles - Get a Selfie Stick

Lately, my life took some turns which prevented me from writing unfortunately. So, a lot was going on photography wise, which I did not (yet) document.

First of all, I have decided, early December 2018 actually, to quit my day job. So, my professional activities will certainly get a new angle. I will focus of photography and arts in general. However, this is not what this post is about.

In preparation to my new business, I began to look into stock photography. Some of my pictures already sold, so I am confident that I am on the right path here. Remarkably, about half my sales are pictures shot the my Huawei P9 phone, no kidding!
In stock photography, one needs to find a way to distinguish from millions of other photographers. And smartphone photographer are a real competition out there.

Today, I got a brain fart and solved the problem of being a little different than other smartphone stock photographers. I got myself a selfie-stick with a shutter release button for not even €4. With my arm upright the phone can take photos about 3+ meters from the ground, giving a very different angle, in particular in street scenes.
Here is an example: https://www.eyeem.com/p/141273640

I have to admit, figuring out the timing of such a shot, not seeing the screen of the phone and not knowing what the auto-focus will do and when the shot will be fired, is a bit of a gamble all together. However, this €4 accessory allows me to get photographs that look as they were taken with a €1k photo-drone. Even better, using a selfie-stick is legal, while the photo-drone would already be illegal for such a scene over here in The Netherlands.

In the light of that, I will certainly investigate into more sturdy and sophisticated selfie-sticks. 


Saturday, February 13, 2016

High Contrast Cityscapes

When photographing in a city, often the photos looks somewhat dull. Often the culprit is a blueish haze. Such haze also lowers the contrast of a scene.

So, here are a few Lightroom settings, which can turn dull photographs into a picture having a little more punch. Please note that this settings (as a preset) are only a starting point. Depending in the photo, one will have to alter one or the other parameter.

Basic:
  • Exposure +0,45
  • Contrast +37
  • Highlights +46
  • Shadows +35
  • Whites 0
  • Blacks -59
  • Clarity +36
  • Vibrance 0
  • Saturation -54
HSL (saturation):
  • Red +59
  • Orange +78
  • Yellow +18
  • Green -54
  • Aqua -74
  • Blue -74
  • Purple -46
  • Magenta 0


Color Photos

The following photo was shot with the Samsung NX mini (ISO800, f/8, 1s/125, 27mm).
original (RAW) exposure
above settings applied


B&W Photos

original RAW converted into B&W

settings applied before converted to B&W

Fingers crossed that blogger does not "correct" the differences away...

Tuesday, April 28, 2015

The Ultimate Selfy-Camera for Street Photography

The Samsung NX mini is known and advertised as the ultimate camera for taking selfies. It comes with either a 9mm f/3.5 prime lens or a 9mm to 27mm f/3.5 to f/5.6 zoom lens. At some stages, I believe, there was a double lens kit available.
In order to be complete, the NXmini mount also sports a 17mm f/1.8 portrait lens, which, however, is hard to get and pretty expensive.

In terms of specifications, the NX mini got a 1 inch (13.2mm x 8.8mm; crop factor 2.7),  20 Mpix, BSI CMOS sensor, which delivers pretty noisy images, at least to my taste. The camera also is provided with a 180 degrees tilt-up LCD screen, which is touch sensitive. WiFi is build into the camera. Of course, this higher end camera can record in RAW.

Enough of the specs! What makes me actually using this camera for street photography? Despite the fact that I own a Ricoh GR.

Super Silent!
Not sure how this is put together technically, however, it seems that there are shutters in the NX mini lenses. I doubt that those are leaf shutters, since the flash sync speed is limited to 1s/200. Anyway, those shutters are really silent!

9mm Pancake Lens
This thing is a must have! This lens turns the NX mini into a camera that you actually will carry in your pocket all the time. The lens will only add 12.5mm to the camera during transport. No manipulation required when turning the camera on, contrary to the zoom lens, which as to be manually extended. The 9mm wide angle view of 83.4 degrees, which is equivalent to 24.3mm on 135 film, just like the perfect street lens.
A very peculiar feature of this lens is that is does not come with a lens cap for the front element. Instead, the front element of this lens is protected by a sheet of tempered glass. Honestly, I do hate this fact... and at the same time, I love it!
On the negative: the protective glass introduces a tremendous amount of lens flair.
On the positive: no moving parts...
On the neutral: many Fuji X100 (S/T) shooters, including myself, put a "protective" UV-filter in front of the first element...

Tilt-up Screen
This is a great feature, since the screen can act as a waist-level view-finder, just like in the days of the TLRs. You can take hip-shots which are actually framed, like in the good old days. Right, more modern cameras have that feature, however, this camera got the hinge the very top, allowing it to be carried by grabbing the screen from below, in particular when touch sensitivity is enabled (see next section).

Touch Sensitive Screen
Samsung integrated a "touch shutter" mode, which defines the AF-area and releases the shutter when focus is established. This way, you can safely open the lens up wide, since it is your finger to determine the focus spot, rather than the camera's processor.
Hold the camera by its screen (see above) with one hand and use the other hand to fire the touch shutter.

Full Manual Control
Despite the many auto and selfy modes this camera supports, there are some very interesting features, concerning street photography.
You can adjust the following parameters manually which no risk to accidentally change those:
  • shutter speed
  • aperture
  • ISO
  • focus distance (when using manual focus)

RAW+JPEG
Yep, that is a good thing. The camera can be set to record the RAW detector data and also process a JPEG image which various filters (Samsung calls those "Picture Wizard"). The live view on the LCD will show you the effect of the filter chosen, however, when a picture is taken the original sensor data is recorded alongside the processed image.
Here a tip for you, in particular when you do not (yet) see in B&W: Set the camera to "Classic" (which the B&W mode). Now you can judge how your scene will look like when processed into B&W.


Here are my recommendations for street photography with the ultimate selfy camera.

1. General Common Settings
  • picture wizard: classic (see above)
  • set ISO to auto (I loved if there was auto-film!)
  • set ISO expansion to on (allows for ISO 100 rather than ISO 160)
  • set auto ISO range to 3200 (beyond that noise become terrible)
  • minimum shutter speed 1s/125 (freeze motion)
  • metering: multi (obviously we are snapping)
  • dial in your preferred aperture (f/11 brings in some diffraction)
  • exposure compensation -1 stop (avoid blown out brights)
  • display off: 30 sec (get it dim asap)
  • auto power off: 30 min (keep it on as long as possible)
  • sound: off (obvious)
  • AF lamp: off (obvious)
  • quick view: off (who's chimping?!)

2. Waist-Level Finder Settings
  • enable touch
  • enable touch-shutter
  • focus mode: AF single
With this settings you will be able to shoot with shallow depth of field. However, you need to be visually connected to your camera, which bystanders might notice. On the positive, this will work even when using the zoom lens.

3. Quick Snap Mode Settings
  • focus mode: MF
  • preset focus to "2 dots' width" from infinity (*)
  • set the aperture to f/8
As Weegee said "f/8 and be there". With the camera set up like this, you will be able to snap shots without worrying about the focus. Shots in this mode can be taken in total secrecy due to the very silent shutter. There wont be any missed focus, due to the deep depth of field. Obviously there is not focus hunting.
Note: touch shutter wont work with manual focus!


Have a look:
Wow - Sevillanas! (Samsung NX mini, 9mm pancake @ f/11)
Obviously f/11 was too far stopped down, diffraction is quite obvious in that shot. The hyper focal distance in this shot was set to about 1.5m. Further, I had to crop a good portion of the image, my lens was just too wide angle for that distance!

As a side remark, I danced Sevillanas myself for some years. The sudden exposure to the dance made me thinking of picking it up again.



Monday, April 28, 2014

Selective Focus Photography

The majority of my latest posts were quite techy. Now, to something completely different!
Let's get artsy!

You have seeing me experimenting with pinholes, creating not only creamy focus with infinite depth of field, but also weird colors.

Today, I would like to show the opposite, going selective with very shallow depth of field. The name of the game "selective focus", the mother of it all, the Lensbaby system (mama!).

Actually, when you open the box, the first you see is a manual leaflet with the friendly imprint "mama!" on it. Nearly as comforting as the words "don't panic" printed in friendly letters of a very important guide book.

Back to Lensbabies! The basic idea behind this system is to give artistic freedom to photographers beyond the commonly used better than the rest lenses everyone uses.
Usually, objective lenses aim for creating a perfectly flat focus plane. Not so the basic lenses of the lensbaby system, which create more like a focus-sphere, resulting in what lensbaby calls a "sweet-spot".
Let's stay at idea of the sweet-spot for the moment (other stuff to follow). Said sweet-spot can be moved across the image plane of your (d)SLR or mirror-less camera. Depending on what aperture is used, various depths of field can be selected... of course you want to go really shallow, right?!
Selecting the aperture is somewhat manual, at least in the system that I got. Changing aperture means literally changing disks with an aperture. The benefit of this is that at all stops have a perfectly round shape, for beautiful bokeh-balls!

Interesting about the system Lensbaby is the availability of different optical units to be placed in a lens body allowing for tilt in all directions. There are mechanical and manual options to perform such tilting action. Things of course come with 2 sides, as medals... Mechanical tilt operation, which is slow, allows for mechanical focusing, which is precise. Manual tilt operation, really fast and hence good for street photography, comes with manual focusing, i.e. using fingers of both hands to achieve focus at the desired tilt.

Presently I own 2 different lens-bodies, the "Spark" for my trusty Digital Rebel Xt and the "Composer with Tilt Transformer" for the micro-4/3 system (Olympus PEN E-PM2). The Spark is a pure manual system, while the Composer is a fully mechanical system.

The optics of lensbaby are said to have a focal distance of 50mm. On a full-frame (d)SLR, that would be a normal objective.
The 350D (Rebel Xt) carries an APSC sensor, resulting the lens to be 80mm equivalent, i.e. a short telephoto lens.
The micro-4/3 system has a crop-factor of 2, 50mm is therefore equivalent to a telephoto lens of 100mm.

Right... techy again... let's get artsy and look at some pictures!


Lensbaby Spark @ Canon EOS-350D

Hoofvijfer, Den Haag

Tuning violin player (Gevangenenpoort, Den Haag)
As said before, the Spark is a lens with is focused and pointed with the might of fingers. These are first experiments. It is clear that this type of photography requires a lot of practicing.
The fountain and island of the Hoofvijfer are pretty much in the sweet spot. Although I like the photo of the violinist, the sweet spot is behind him at the wall. As a lame excuse I claim that I was walking, trying to not bump into tourists, while trying to get the sweet-spot on the guy...


Lensbaby Composer w/ Tilt Transformer @ Olympus E-PM2

This combo, although being much more precise, is a lot slower. I missed (blew!) quite some shots due to the mechanics.
First of all, there are 2 very different activities going on. The lens body, which is held by a ball hinge, has to be tilt into the desired direction. Then, the focus ring of the body is used to bring the optics into the desired focus.
It seems the Composer is more for studio work... maybe architecture... something that does not move, or at least not too quickly.

Here's a lesson to learn have a look:
Composer w/ double glass @ f2.8
This guy, sitting about 1m apart from me on the same bench, was very very patient with me! I took 3 shots, this is the last of the series. Yep, the sweet-spot is on his claw, not on his eye... I tried to correct, which created some weird noise... and he was gone! Note: for close-up wildlife, better use manual action Lensbabies, such as the Spark or the Muse!
Don't know why the bokeh is so crappy....

One learns from mistakes. (Mind you, this was the very first day I was in possession of the composer.) Hence, I adopted my workflow to first determine where in the frame the sweet-spot is, contrary what lensbaby.com tells in their manual.

This is what I do:
  • point the camera right to the ground, as parallel as possible
  • find the focus of the sweet-spot
  • now: slightly de-focus towards infinity, the creates a sharp ring around the sweet-spot (*)
  • move the ring to circle around some feature in the live-view, e.g. a crossing of golden ratio lines
  • lock the ball-joint
  • move your "subject" (I hate that word) into the region of the sweet-spot
  • focus
  • shoot!
There are a lot of helper lines available in modern cameras, e.g. rule of thirds or golden ratio, which btw. are not the same!
Now that you now where the sweet-spot is located, it is surprisingly simple to focus, since the focus-action of the composer is super-smooth.
Have a look at result obtained by this technique
Family Supper - LB Composer @ Olympus E-PM2 (f2.8)
(*) The trick of finding the sweet-spot easily is by making use of the fact that focus is formed on a sphere, rather than a plane. Cut trough a sphere, and you will get a circle... In this case, a circle of focus around the center which will be the sweet-spot when focused upon.

Sheep are slow moving domestic animals. But what about wildlife, well, as wild as it gets in one of the most densely populated areas of Europe, if not the World.

Speaking of wildlife, it seems that selective focus defies the lack of a long telephoto lens.
Takeoff! (f2.8)
Here is some Fulica atra, who had enough of being stalked by a bloody human with a camera... so, he took off. I had arranged the sweet-spot and focus was achieved easily.

Interestingly enough, in the photo of the sheep family and the taking off coot, the selective focus seems to be substituting a really long lens.

The selective focus seems to be pulling the viewer into the image, which seems to be more natural than pushing the subject into the viewer's face by a long lens!
Also, the selective focus automatically provides context to the image.
The last example shows that even a center placed subject can look somewhat interesting, provided blur gives sufficient guidance to the eye.
The last example also shows how the focus-sphere works. The branch in the upper left golden ratio is similarly in focus like the waves in the center, although there are several meters between the two items. You will feel, that, now that I said it, the branch will actually disturb you... Yep, that's how difficult is it to get a decent shot with selective focus. Nevertheless fun, I promise!

Sunday, April 6, 2014

In a Dilemma

Street photography is a genre I am really intrigued by, but still new with. It creates a very strange tension between doing something illegal and/or intruding into a persons privacy. Both is untrue. It's the street, whatever is in public space belongs to the public. Still, the feeling remains.
It happened often that I wanted to take a shot of a scene, covertly, which I was hindered from doing, for one or the other reason. The reservations of going back and take the shot, up to now, were stronger than the wish to get the picture.

So far so good, I am a failure in the genre street, it seems, due to a lack of courage.

However, I found a way around this problem. If someone addresses you, this person took the initiative to make contact. Although such a person might not feel to happy about you taking a photo, adverse feelings can't be shown either (motto: I got you!). Yep, that would be mean... and therefore, I do not suggest this technique.
However, once someone addressed you, you have a chance to react! Crack a joke or at least, say something weird or funny. This will create a contact between you and your "subject". Such a contact will directly lead to eye contact. Keep this eye contact, twinkle if necessary and take a hop shot with you camera. A person laughing out loud (hence the joke), will not able to hear the sound created by your camera's shutter.

As long as you keep eye-contact, in order to distract from the camera, keep making noise as to disguise the shutter's noise.

Here is an example (mind you,  I am new to this and a such cannot point my camera well; neither of the photos is cropped).

This lady addressed me about something, I had time to estimate the frame (hip shot)

I said something which made her laugh... and messed up the framing...
In both photos, I had the lady looking into my eyes, the camera low down at waist level, the shutter was actually triggered by my thumb.
Right... that sort of worked... some cropping and post-pro and I will actually be able to deliver something.

Earlier that day, I tried a very similar thing, and really spoiled. Yep, this went totally wrong! It went so wrong, that I even cannot be bothered to process those files. I messed up! I messed up in my acting and in my photo-skillz... framing sucks too!
Lets have a look at a failure!

I was addressed by a young lady... although I understand Dutch pretty well, I could not follow her immediately. (Oh, that's a chance!) ... Wadd 'dya say? Ey doun understain'!
 
"I am a tourist, I am here to take photos, see.... click!" Well, it's a photo!
And of course, I had my lens set to the wrong focal distance and also I moved too much... The resulting image is of course good for the bin only.

Yeah right!

Realizing my mistake, I came up with some more acting to adjust my focus, which worked for her, but made the surrounding spectators quite suspicious. And, in the flow of acting, I got my framing totally wrong!
Look at the ladies in the reflection of the window...
As I said, that did not work out at all.

What did I learn today? Keep eye contact, don't fiddle with the camera... if the settings are not right, just forgot about the shot.
I also learned that people like to have a laugh, say something nice and light... you may not got a photo, but you potentially will be remembered as a short anonymous amusement.


Friday, January 3, 2014

Street Photography Using the LX7

I am rather new to street photography, however, I think I got some basic understanding of what seems to be the thumb-rule for getting the shot in the street.
  1. Speed, the shutter needs to open a quickly as possible.
  2. Monochrome images are typical for this genre.
  3. Depth of field, usually pretty deep.
Let's see what we can do with the Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX7.
This camera, as you probably already know, hast got 4 memory position for custom settings. In my camera, C1 is taken by bracketing, cf. earlier post. This leaves us with the 3 additional spaces under the C2 position of the quick dial, I choose C2-1, later more about that.

Lets look at what we primarily need, control over the camera with the fewest possible interactions.
The camera sports a nice aperture control ring, so, lets go for aperture priority mode (there are actually more reasons for this, you will see).
=> Step 0: set the camera to "A".

Being as fast as possible, the first priority to me was to use manual focus (MF), which is to be selected by the switch at the lens barrel, in order to loose the time any auto-focus takes. "Manual focus?", you may ask yourself, "the one where you have to fiddle that little 'FOCUS'-thingy?!". Yes, precisely that!
Here comes the trick: in the Setup-menu (page 4), there is an entry 'Lens Resume'. This entry refers to 2 options: 'Zoom Resume' and 'MF Resume'. Both come in very handy for street photography purposes.
=> Step 1: enable lens resume for both options (Setup-menu, page 4), see below


We want monochrome, right? Well, yes and no. B&W images in such cameras are produced by processing data that is provided by sensors having a Color Filter Array (CFA) printed on them. Those filters are red green and blue filters, where green occurs twice in a pixel (cf. Bayer filter array). The individual filter dye used on said array will of course have a specific attenuation.
When recording photos in RAW, we record the data provided by the sensors, as the name suggest. This data, however, represents light filtered by the Bayer CFA. 
I hope that camera manufacturers make use of the knowledge of the light attenuation created by the respective dyes and take it into consideration for the algorithm to convert RGB-data into monochrome images. Consequently, you would want to store not only the RAW file, but also a monochrome JPG file.
=> Step 2: in the Rec-menu, set 'Photo Style' to 'Monochrome'
=> Step 2.1: i the Rec-menu, set 'Quality' to 'RAW + fine'


Point 3 of the above list points towards depth of field. Well, since we are on our way programming the camera in aperture priority, we do not need to bother about that, you will take care about the D.o.F. by using the aperture dial on the lens barrel.
=> Step 3: enjoy the aperture dial of the LX7!


Some further stuff may come in handy:
  • ISO limit 800 (Rec-menu, page 1), ISO 800 may already be noisy... hence don't go beyond that
  • Quick AF ON (Rec page 2), in case you engage auto-focus
  • Metering Mode [(.)] (Rec, page 3), evaluative mode, there is not time for spot metering, still we want to meter where we point, roughly...
  • Step Zoom ON (Rec, page 4), see below
  • Stabilizer ON (Rec, page 4), good idea, in particular since in this type of photography the photographer is moving quite often
  • AF Assist Lamp OFF (Rec, page 4), don't alert your subjects!

Now, save your settings into a convenient custom memory. As mentioned above, I went for C2-1. This can be done by on 'Setup' page 2, item: 'Cust.Set Mem.'. I leave it up to you to figure out the rest.


SEE BELOW points:

Lens Resume
Both settings, the focal length and the focus could/should be set before going on the street.
I recommend a focal length equivalent to either 35mm or 50mm, depending on your preference. This setting will be recalled when you switch on your LX7. Depending on your training, you will see for yourself w/o engaging any viewfinder, what the framing will be.
The more important setting is the manual focus (MF). Put the camera into manual focus mode and set the focal distance to about 3m (using a wide open aperture... the on screen display will show you the range). Now stop down the iris, and you will see how deep the D.o.F. will be. Judging the distance to your subject is just a matter of experience, be it 3m, you may open the lens to the maximum, if you are not sure, just stop it down, thereby increasing the D.o.F.

Step Zoom
Depending on your training, you will see with your own eye what the frame will be when knowing the equivalent focal length of the lens. Helps a great deal when shooting from the hips!


Summarizing:
- Those particular setting will produce a colored RAW image and a monochrome JPG.
- The camera is only controlled by the aperture ring, only defining the D.o.F.
- The settings can be recalled by the mode selector.